I did this part on a trip where I also overlanded to Lhasa and then took a train to Xining. I passed through Yunnan, a province with an agreable climate. The city of eternal spring, Kunming is sometimes called. The first time I was there, 11 years ago it took more than eleven hours to get from there to Dali. Now it takes less then five. So China is getting smaller in a way. I did a standard route to get tot Zhongdian, now called Shangri La Town, but skipped Lijiang. I was there in 1996 and went back in 2002 to find the place over-touristy, the entire atmosphere was gone. The silent cobblestone paved streets swarming with Chinese tourists, the only traditional dresses worn by tourguides with a flag.
Kunming
A modern city, but with considerable charm. There are still street markets, dozens of street vendors and interesting sights. Yuantong temple is quite beautiful and the scenery around the Tang dynasty pagoda’s (east and west) is interesting. I can recommend the Bamboo temple, though I did not have the chance of going there this time.
Dali
Another old time favorite of me. Getting more touristy every I get there with newly erected old looking city gates, shopping streets and rebuild temples around the three pagodas. The countryside surrounding Dali has not lost its charm however, with places like Weishan, Xizhou and Cheng Bei. Guanyin temple is very worthwhile, considerably more authentic than the newly erected Chongseng temple around the three pagoda's where little plastic fighters are sold in front of the Buddha statues as are matroesjka dolls.